“From Udupi to Delhi: The Timeless Charm of Madras Hotel”

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By Adam Rizvi, The India Observer, TIO: Ninety years ago, a small restaurant in Connaught Place introduced Delhi to the magic of South Indian cuisine. It was called Madras Hotel, and it would go on to win the hearts—and taste buds—of generations.

Priyavadan Rao now finds it difficult to revisit Connaught Place. It was here, in 1935, that his father, nK. Subba Rao, an Udupi native from present-day Karnataka, opened Madras Hotel. Connaught Place was still a fledgling market then, with empty shops and little footfall. But Subba Rao was a visionary—he named his restaurant “Madras Hotel” because, for Delhiites, Madras symbolized all of South India.

From the very start, Delhi’s love affair with dosas, idlis, and vadas began here. Until then, these delicacies were a rarity in the capital. The early regulars included students and doctors from the nearby Lady Hardinge Medical College, who were among the first to be charmed by the crisp dosas and soul-warming sambar.

Honouring the Rao Family’s Enduring Legacy

When Subba Rao passed away unexpectedly in 1955, his son Priyavadan Rao had no choice but to step in. Up until then, he had been a casual visitor to the restaurant, spending only a few hours a day. But his father’s demise thrust him into the heart of the business, and it wasn’t long before he made Madras Hotel his life’s calling.

One of his first—and most enduring—decisions was simple: no customer would ever be refused extra servings of sambar or potato filling, and they would never be charged for it. This small but significant gesture became Madras Hotel’s trademark.

Dr. Ravinderr Kumar, a respected author and Railway Board member, recalls fondly: “We’d keep asking for more sambar, and the waiters always obliged with a smile. That hospitality is rare today.” Many Delhiites still recount how they were served multiple helpings of the restaurant’s signature sambar, considered by many as the very essence of comfort food.

Perched above the Central News Agency in Connaught Place’s P Block, the restaurant was accessible by a narrow staircase. Despite its modest size, it remained packed from morning till evening, buzzing with loyal patrons who knew exactly where to get their dosa fix.

An Era of Culinary Glory

By the 1970s, Madras Hotel wasn’t just a restaurant—it was a cultural institution. Its popularity reached such heights that in 1967, even the bus terminal near Shivaji Stadium was colloquially named “Madras Hotel Bus Terminal” (until it was officially renamed in 1982).

A visit to Connaught Place was incomplete without a stop at Madras Hotel. Veteran journalist Arun Kumar reminisces, “If you haven’t eaten at Madras Hotel, you’ll never understand why Delhi was so obsessed with it.”

The dosas were a class apart—perfectly crisp, served with soft idlis, crunchy vadas, and a coconut chutney that had no rival. The iconic Madras Hotel thali—loaded with wet and dry vegetables, rasam, curd, papad, pickle, and a sweet—became a ritual for lunch-goers. Between 12 and 3 PM, the restaurant would serve hundreds of thalis to eager diners.

The kitchen was a well-oiled machine. Chefs specialized in specific items: some crafted only dosas, others focused on idlis or vadas. They all hailed from Udupi, conversing in Kannada as they worked. The menu was strictly vegetarian, a rule Priyavadan Rao, lovingly called “Rao Sahib,” never compromised on. He personally ensured the food quality remained impeccable, often interacting with customers himself.

Venkat Sundaram, former Delhi Ranji Trophy captain, remembers Rao Sahib not just for his culinary contributions, but also for his generosity. “He supported the Madras Cricket Club financially. Who does that for their patrons today?” he asks.

The Curtains Fall on a Culinary Icon

In 2005, Connaught Place lost one of its brightest culinary stars. The owners of the building reclaimed the space, forcing Madras Hotel to shut its doors. For many, this closure left a void in Delhi’s gastronomic landscape. Some even believe that the now-popular Andhra Bhavan canteen only rose to prominence after Madras Hotel’s exit.

Rao Sahib’s departure from the restaurant was deeply emotional. Witnesses recall seeing him weep like a child as he left his beloved establishment for the final time.

Recently, on his 90th birthday celebration at his Gurugram residence, conversations among old friends inevitably drifted back to Madras Hotel. Listening to their stories and laughter, Rao Sahib’s eyes glistened with tears. The place may have closed, but its memories—like the lingering aroma of its dosas—refuse to fade.

Curated by Humra Kidwai

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